Blue Faille Coat

I made this coat a number of years ago for a Threads article – and I’d forgotten about it until I saw a blow-up photograph of it as a backdrop to an interview Kenneth King was doing with Judy Neukam (at the Threads offices).  So I dug it out, and have been enjoying wearing it ever since!

The Blue Faille Coat

The Blue Faille Coat

It’s silk faille – a sort of old-fashioned fabric – heavily ribbed – that’s a pleasure to sew with.  It’s underlined with silk organza and lined with silk charmeuse.
The inspiration for the coat came from a vintage coat that a student of mine either wore, or brought, into class one day….hers had been found at a vintage shop, and was in perfect shape .  I loved the lantern sleeves…

The lantern sleeves.

The lantern sleeves.

I recall when I was doing the pattern work, I had to scale them down a bit – too large and they’re comical; too small, and they look like regular sleeves.   You can also see there was a little bit of shaping at the tops of the sleeves – soft angles at both the front and back of the armscye.  I love those subtle little details.   The original coat was wool – and the horizontal seam at the sleeve was  embellished with trapunto stitching.  We decided, for the article, to use a beaded trim, which was repeated on the pocket welts.

Beaded trim on the pocket welts.

Beaded trim on the pocket welts.

You can see my hand understitching along the front edges of the coat – it keeps the layers together, and it also allows me to position the fold so that the facing is cheated every-so-slightly to the inside…

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It’s the perfect evening coat – it’s such a pretty color, it’s got a little bit of sparkle, it’s got pockets, there’s no closure to fuss with…I’m so glad it’s back!!!

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Detail of the inside edge.

Detail of the inside edge.